A beautiful bunch of young lacinato kale.
Last week at the St. Helena Farmers’ Market, I bought one of my favorite greens—lacinato kale. Today, the kale awaits me. It is gloomy here, raining—practically unheard of in Napa Valley during the month of May. So I am pondering what to have for dinner…hmmm—Zuppa con cavolo nero e fagioli. But first, what the heck is lacinato kale?
Lacinato Kale
What is it?
Lacinato kale—long stemmed, with frilly, blistered leaves—is one of the darkest greens in the Cruciferae plant family (Brassica Oleracea species, Acephala group), a very nutritious collection of vegetables that are rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals. Lacinato kale’s deep bluish green-black leaves make it one of the most nutritious among its cousins—cabbage, watercress, broccoli, cauliflower, arugula, collard greens, mustard greens, and Brussels sprouts.
What to look for
At the store, the vegetable is called lacinato, dino, dinosaur, Tuscan, or black kale. In Italy, it is called cavolo nero (black cabbage). Look for fresh (not wilted), tender dark green leaves—the smaller the leaf, the more tender and delicate. Non-organic kale is often heavily sprayed, so organic kale is a much better choice.
Note: Visit the Environmental Working Group’s website (www.foodnews.org) to read about the “Dirty Dozen” (http://www.foodnews.org/methodology.php), produce with the highest levels of pesticides.
Bowl of Lacinata Kale and Bean Soup
When is it in season?
In California, lacinato kale is generally available year-round at supermarkets and farmers’ markets, but the prime season is winter, spring, and fall.
How to store and prepare
Drop the kale into a large bowl (or salad spinner) filled with cold water; gently swish the stalks around to remove any dirt—this may take two or three bowlfuls of fresh water. The kale is clean when no grit remains in the bottom of the bowl. When clean, rather than draining it into a colander, scoop the kale out of the water by hand just in case there is fine dirt left on the bottom. Drain the leaves well (or spin them dry in the salad spinner). Wrap the leaves in a clean towel; store in a plastic bag in a crisper drawer in the refrigerator for up to several days. (Note: flavors and nutrition deteriorate as the kale ages). Just before cooking, for more tender kale, cut the leaves off the stems using kitchen shears (usually a good idea if the leaves are large).
What to do with it
Like spinach and chard, lacinato kale has a green flavor but with a slightly bitter, astringent quality and a peppery background. The Italians cook the kale in extra virgin olive oil with garlic, a pinch of red pepper flakes, and plenty of salt to help mellow it out. The sautéed kale makes one of the most traditional—and popular—toppings for crostini in Tuscany, and it’s also delicious on pizza with sautéed onions, diced almost-crisp pancetta, and plenty of salt and olive oil. In Italy, cavolo nero is served alongside roasted, grilled, or braised meats and poultry, but it is also makes a quick sauce for pasta. In Umbria, sautéed greens are tucked inside torta al testo (griddle bread) with grilled sausage or cheese. Lacinato kale—and chard—is an important ingredient in many soups, from minestrone to ribollita. A recipe for a quick Italian soup follows.
Zuppa con cavolo nero e fagioli—Lacinato Kale and Bean Soup
PRINT Zuppa con cavolo nero e fagioli
Seme di melone pasta
After a conversation with my friend and colleague Rita Held about her husband’s kale and bean soup, I rushed out to buy lacinato kale to make my own version. The soup is quick and easy to make—and it is really delicious.
For the pasta, tiny soup pasta is ideal. De Cecco sells several kinds—stellette (tiny stars), riso (rice), and seme di melone (melon seeds), my favorite. Any of these will do. If you have fresh soup pasta—it’s even better than dried—add it during the last few minutes of cooking.
Here is my rendition of the soup.
Yield: About 6-1/2 cups (3 main-dish servings or 6 first-course servings)
Ingredients
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil plus more for garnish
Lacinato kales simmers in broth
1/2 medium yellow onion, finely chopped
2 slices pancetta or bacon, diced
1 large garlic clove, minced
6 cups homemade chicken broth
1 large bunch lacinato kale or chard, chopped
1 (14 ounce) can cannellini beans, drained
1/2 cup dried tiny soup pasta, such as seme di melone or riso
Cannellini beans are added to the soup
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Shredded or grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
Directions
Heat a medium saucepan over medium heat; add the oil. When hot, sauté the onion, pancetta, and garlic in the oil until the onion is tender and the pancetta is cooked but not crisp. (If using bacon, you might want to drain off some of the fat.) Add the broth; bring to a boil over high heat. Immediately stir in the kale and reduce the heat; simmer until the kale is just
Seme di melone pasta cooks until al dente
tender, about 12 minutes. Add the beans and pasta; cook until the pasta is al dente (refer to the package directions for cooking time). If the pasta absorbs too much liquid add a little more broth or water. Adjust the salt to taste; season with pepper as desired. Drizzle each serving with a little of the oil. Pass the cheese at the table.
Notes: Al dente means the pasta gives some resistance when bitten into—it should not be soft. For a really fast soup, substitute one quart canned chicken broth plus two cups water for the homemade broth.
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