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By Suzanne Carreiro, October 15, 2010 08:04

Next Events: November 9, 2010–National Press Club Book Fair, Washington, DC. November 10, 2010 Arlington, VA Library.

Lunch at L’Osteria in Aboca

Last July, Bill and I had the most delicious lunch with my “adopted” Umbrian son Mario at L’Osteria in Aboca, just a few minutes from his office at Aboca (Italy’s leading producer of herbal supplements).

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Lunch at L’ Osteria in Aboca was one of the best meals we had during our month-long stay in Umbria.  The restaurant is in the hills above Sansepolcro in Tuscany—a bit out of the way—but worth the drive.  I suggest making a day of it.  Visit Aboca Museum in Sansepolcro—and then wander around the town, either before or after your meal.

The day we went, all of Europe was experiencing a heat wave.  But since Aboca is in the hills, we were comfortable sitting outside on the terrace across the street from the restaurant.  The service was very friendly and the menu enticing.  The homemade ravioli were exquisite.

We started with fritto misto.  The dish was perfect—the lightly battered zucchini blossoms, porcini mushrooms, and thinly sliced zucchini arrived hot and crispy with just the right amount of salt.  Next we ate an abundant platter of antipasto misto dell’osteria. Panzanella (my next post will include a recipe for this bread salad). Melon and prosciutto.  Slivered, pickled zucchini.  Burrata with basil.  Dried sausage.  Salami.  Pecorino cheese with currant jam.  Four kinds of crostini—sliced bread: (1) topped with Gorgonzola dolce and thinly sliced pancetta, (2) spread with bulk sausage, topped with a slice of brie, toasted until cooked, (3) covered with traditional liver pâté, (4) topped with warm tomato sauce. The two antipasti plates would have been enough lunch for two, but heck, we were in Italy, and we wanted to eat a multi-course Italian meal.

Bill and I each ordered ravioli for our first course (Mario skipped il primo piatto).  The ravioli were house-made and as good as any I’ve had.  Mine were filled with potato and creamy crescenza cheese and garnished with butter and spinach.  Bill’s were filled with ricotta and spinach, served with a rich meat sauce.  Wow.

Bill and I shared grilled veal on a bed of arugula—perfectly cooked but a little chewy.  Mario ordered grilled pork with balsamic vinegar.  Both secondi piatti were tasty, but the pork was my favorite.  We shared an insalata mista.

We were too full for dolce, but I bet whatever they offered would have been delicious.

L’Osteria in Aboca

Fraz Aboca, 11

52037 . Sansepolcro (AR)

Tuscany, Italy

Telephone: (from USA, add 011 39) 0575 749 125

Closed Monday

Aboca Museum

Palazzo Bourbon del Monte V

Via Niccolò Aggiunti 75

52037 Sansepolcro (AR) Italy

Telephone:  (from USA, add 011 39) 0575 733589

Next post:  Giaccomo’s recipe for Panzanella.

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By Suzanne Carreiro, July 7, 2010 00:10

Bevagna, Umbria (Italia)

Print Onofri Review

Ciao a tutti,

The day of Il Mercato delle Gaite in Bevagna, outside in the streets it was unbearably hot so around noon we sought refuge inside.  We were turned down at every restaurant—they were already packed.  I soon realized that we should have made a reservation.  Fortunately, we happened upon the menu for Ristorante Onofri posted on a wall.  I had eaten there a few times and loved it, so we wandered around until we found the place.  Since Onofri is in a neighborhood away from the festivities, the place was practically empty—and cool. 

We decided that a long lunch would be a good idea—to escape the heat.  The interior had all of the charm and warmth you’d expect in a nice Italian ristorante.  Arched brick ceilings, ancient polished brick floors, dark wooden chairs with rush seats, and a fireplace at the end of the room.  I suspect the thirteen mini apartments in the Onofri Locanda (inn) are just as lovely.

The wine list boasts over four hundred wines—local, Italian, and foreign.  And everything on the menu sounded delicious—traditional flavors with a contemporary flair.  For antipasto, Bill ordered Brie con pancetta e patate (with bacon and potatoes) for 6.5 euro.  A warm 3-inch round of brie arrived wrapped in a few crisp pieces of pancetta, sitting on a bed of chopped lettuce and a few slices of roasted potatoes.  The soft brie and the rich, salty bacon were lovely together; the greens and potatoes were superfluous.

I ordered Fiori di zucchina gratinati con ricotta di bufala, su crema di pomodori arrosto e olio al basilico for 8.5 euro.  Three beautiful zucchini blossoms arrived, filled with creamy, heavenly ricotta and topped with melted cheese and a dusting of fine bread crumbs.  I’ve never tasted ricotta so fresh and sumptuous in the USA.  The roasted tomato sauce under the flowers was light and delicious with a whiff of basil.

For my next dish, I ordered Picchiarelli con fave, guanciale e pecorino—thick, handmade egg-less spaghetti, a traditional local pasta.  It was an excellent choice.  The fava beans were fresh and plentiful.  Guanciale—similar to pancetta but more delicate and delicious—and pecorino cheese added richness and saltiness to the otherwise bland pasta. 

Bill skipped the pasta and went straight to il secono piatto (the second plate), Tagliata di vitello bianco da latte con fave, piselli e fagiolini (milk-fed veal steak with fava beans, peas, and green beans) for 15 euro.  The thick steak, sliced into medallions, was tender and juicy. In Umbria, meat is usually cooked until well done, but Onofri cooked it perfectly, to order.

We ended the meal with an insalata mista (mixed salad)—we were too stuffed to eat dessert.

To date, this is the best meal we have eaten out.

A presto, Suzanne

Enoteca – Locanda Piazza Onofri

Via Onofri, 2

Bevagna, Umbria

Phone:  0742/361-926

Closed Wednesday