Finding a Match in Umbria

By Suzanne Carreiro, April 18, 2010 18:14

I couldn’t find matches at the supermarket in an Umbrian supermarket, so I asked a clerk for help.  “No, no signora, we don’t sell matches!”  he said, looking amazed at my dumb question.  “Where can I buy them?” I asked.  “La tabaccheria (the tobacco shop).”  His tone of voice told me the answer was obvious (maybe it was).  On the street, a giant letter T identifies tobacco shops.  They sell anything to do with smoking and an assortment of other things—cell phone minutes, phone cards, postage stamps, gum, candy, gifts, magazines, and matches.

Need aspirin?  Go to the farmacia—unless the laws have changed (grocery stores were lobbying to amend them)—that’s the only place you’ll find them.

There are still many specialty stores—grocery (alimentari), produce (frutta e verdura), pastry (pasticceria), butcher (macelleria), bakery (panetteria or panificio) and pasta—but most people like the one-stop shopping large supermarkets offer.  From the moment you push a coin into the slot to release a cart from its station in the parking lot, shopping in an Umbrian supermarket is an experience.  For example, the sugar is usually located near the coffee and baking soda is near the bottled water—in the USA both are in the baking aisle.  Eggs sit on unrefrigerated shelves next to row after row of shelf-stable milk cartons.  The fresh milk section—with just a few short rows of liter cartons—is notably small.  And late in the day expect the refrigerated milk to be sold out.

The produce department holds the biggest challenge for a successful (not embarrassing) shopping trip.  You need to remember three things: (1) wear the plastic gloves provided by the store to handle fruit and vegetables; (2) immediately weigh the bagged goods (so you don’t forget), selecting the item’s icon on the scale; and (3) put the price sticker that the scale spits out on the bag.  What humiliation if you arrive at checkout without prices.  The cashier will leave the register to weigh your purchases in the produce section while everyone in line glares at you.  Smile and feel grateful that at least you didn’t ask for matches, like I did.

4 Responses to “Finding a Match in Umbria”

  1. Well, I’ve been duly warned about matches, aspirin, produce shopping!

  2. I hope you enjoyed the post. I love shopping in foreign countries. Always a great experience.

  3. Cynthia Cushman says:

    Ciao Susanna, I have tears in my eyes, laughing at the vision of everyone in line glaring at you for your transgression! I had numerous humiliating moments in the venetian grocery stores, particularly my attempts to pack up my purchases and get the heck out of the way before the next person’s items fly down the shute. I wrote a piece about it… will have to send that to you when you get home, to bring back happy memories!!

  4. Ciao Cinzia, So glad I am not alone in experiencing embarrassing moments. Shopping is an experience here, but I love it.

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